Lost in Prasat Phnom Rung

I was thoroughly drenched after my short climb past the tourist traps, touts, and park ticket office to the crest of the hill when the magnificence of the temple ruins of Prasat Phnom Rung came into full view. I always seem to pick the warmest days when I decide to venture out and do some climbing or hiking. That day was no different, and by that point I had already gone through one of my 500ml water bottles I had brought along, the other was still mostly ice.

A little back ground on the ruins, Prasat Phnom Rung is a magnificent ancient Khmer ruin, located at the top of an extinct volcano, near Ta Pek village deep within Buriram Province. Mounted at the peak of the mountain, the towering prang is visible for miles around and offers a commanding view of the rice paddies and villages below.

Prasat Phnom Rung is a stunning example of Khmer art and architecture. The ruins date from the 12th century and are constructed from a mix of sandstone blocks and laterite brick which are elaborately carved. The principal buildings within the walled compound comprise of chambered gateways facing the four cardinal directions, a squared base sanctuary tower with entrances and antechambers at the four cardinal points. Also worth note are the carved lintels and decorative friezes of the walls and pillars.

Thankfully the ruins are accessible via road as hiking up the entire hill in the middle of the hot season takes its toll on me. From the parking lot, the way to the temple ruins are clearly marked, in Thai. Someday I will learn this very elusive script. The English signage is a little wanting, but as the signs are all pointing in the same direction, there is little fear of getting lost and the trek up isn’t arduous, though it is not handicap friendly.  From the top you are greeted to a stunning view of the grand causeway and the central prang atop the highest point of the hill. I encourage visitors to watch their step along the causeway as the stones are uneven and even the steps up are a little narrow. I have found that climbing the steps diagonally gives me better footing, and is easier on the knees. As a plus, this method is also entertaining for the locals to watch the farang climb the stairs funny. They stopped laughing and gave a thumbs up after one of them tried climbing my way.

From the top of the stairs, the fully walled enclosure and gateway were in full view. There was a sizable crowd that day, a telling testament that the ruins are quite popular for Thais and foreigners alike. One of the reasons I enjoy this ruin is that it isn’t jammed packed like many other Khmer sites in Cambodia, and is equally as impressive in its scale and architecture.

Once at the main temple site, getting around and setting up for the perfect picture angle are pretty much at your own leisure. There isn’t a recommended course, and the site is small enough you can make several passes to see as much as you wish to take in. The central prang should be at the top of the list to explore. The ruins are of a Hindu temple and monastery, and the lintels and reliefs adorning the main sanctuary draw their inspiration from Hindu mythology. Many of the scenes relate to the Hindu triumvirate of Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva.  The ancient Khmer practiced the Shiva-ism cult of Hinduism before adopting Buddhism several centuries later. The only other recommendation is that you pack enough water, as even on level ground the heat can be over powering.

As this is my first post on this blog, my apologies as I find my style and voice as I am regurgitating my travels. I believe we need to adapt and change, and for anyone who chooses to follow me, they will notice as I find the right voice, and my place in the blogger-sphere.

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