I had long wished to visit Mungyeong Seje, and when the chance finally came I couldn’t simply let this opportunity pass me by. On this trip, I went with my friend Miyoung, who is the younger sister of my friend from my college days. While the day was warm and the air fresh, it was still an exhausting trek as the site extends several kilometers and then there was the walk back. My travel companion was a sport and didn’t complain too much.
The three gates as we see today were completed in 1708. They fortify the pass on an important road connecting the capital to Gyeongsan province and Busan further to the south. The pass has been a strategic corridor since the Three Kingdoms era of Korea, and various barriers were erected at least since Shilla Kingdom possessed the site. Because of the ease the Japanese passed through during the invasion of 1592, it was determined that a series of walls should be erected across the pass, and so it came to be the three gates that we see today.
As with many Korean fortresses, a fair amount of hiking is involved, so anyone who visits this site I would encourage to pack enough water and a few snacks, though there are rest stops along the way, but they charge a princely fee for those who don’t come prepared. The first of the three gates, Juheul-gwan, is located at the neck of the small valley that makes up the pass. It is an impressive structure, and I took my time exploring the sluice gate and surrounding area. A nearby museum leading up to the gate is worth spending a bit of time at as well, especially before making the hike where on your return your energy level may not make you as enthusiastic for visiting.
From the first gate, the hike is relatively gentle and the natural views make the hike pleasant, even in the summer heat. There are a number of ruins along the way from historic rest stops, shrines, and various marker stones. The first of the modern rest stops also begin to make their appearance, and the ones here were much more pleasant than the ones found later on. if you are starting to feel peckish and are concerned about the freshness of the makgeolli then it is recommended to fill up here. Later on the rest stops take on a little more, err, character.
To reach the second gate, Jogok-gwan, you will cross a sturdy stone bridge, the construction complements the aesthetics of the gate. This is a nice spot to catch your breath, enjoy nature and the overgrowth around the gate. The walls begin to appear to be in ruin the further along you ascend from the gate, but a few good photo spots can be found, if Korean stone laying techniques are your interest. Regrettably, the gate itself has not been faithfully restored with period specific construction methods. Only a facsimile of what the gate most likely looked like is presented.
From the second gate, the hike begins to become a little more sinister for city folk such as myself. If you are a seasoned hiker, then the hill simply becomes steeper. From here, you can hear the whining of girl friends and mothers (and hiking partner) begin to become a little more pronounced, only to be encouraged to press on by their partners. The distance to the third gate is also about a third of the way longer to add to the torment of the hike, and the rest stops scattered along they way begin to develop some character. Clearly enterprising rest stops might have an inviting blue tarpaulin pitched to offer shade.
After having refreshed on some makgeolli and pa-jun, or buchimgae, we continued our ascent to the third gate. The trail follows a well trodden road, torn up by some four wheeled drive vehicle, which means that watching your footing takes away from enjoying more of the surrounding nature. But by this point a tree looks like any tree, and every shrub looks like… okay we definitely saw that shrub before… yup, we made a circle when we stepped off the trail, note to not follow what looks like the easy path. After a thirty minute detour we pressed ahead and finally the signs for the third gate came into view.
With the third gate, Joryeong-gwan, now in view the ascent is over. The views of the valley opening up below made it worth it. No medals for the feat, nor rest stops to refresh, The views were enough though, but the day was wearing out, and it was time to make out way back down. Thankfully the entire trip was downhill and wasn’t nearly as arduous. Also an additional plus was that the heat of the day was starting to wane so it made for a more pleasant downhill hike.
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